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Dragon's Designs Wraith Autococker Backblock Recreation



With the excess milled away, a little more etch-a-sketchery gently trims out the concavity-
gently because the part is getting thin and springy at this point.



Then the base of the bar is milled down for clearance.



Clearance necessary to be able to use the belt sander to smooth out that concave area.



We're getting there.



here's where the artists' Mark I, Mod 0 Eyeball comes into play. Comparing the old block
to the new blank, I marked out where the body and style lines are to go.



And then, slowly, carefully, cut the contours into the blank. This is not a time to get in a hurry.



Lots of cycles of blowing the dust off, trial fit, trim some more, blow the dust off, trial fit...



Each body line is fitted individually, checked, recut, and checked again. Keep in mind
there's two blocks here, so I'm doing each one of those twice. With a Dremel.
(Again, don't knock 'em- in the right hands, they're extremely useful.)



With the body contours mostly roughed, it was time for the even more patience-taxing process
of hand-filing each feature smooth, using a large collection of Swiss and needle files.



With that shaping and smoothing almost entirely done, the no-longer-needed excess bar
was milled off, in order to shape the block to the lower part of the marker body.






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Information contained in these pages is for reference and entertainment purposes only.  Our methods are not always the best,
quickest, safest, or even the correct ones. It's up to you to know how to use your own machines and tools.
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