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Logan Lathe CNC Conversion

The bearing block was (more or less) mounted, but I didn't want to mount it directly to the end of the slide.
I wanted the slide to travel slightly past (rearward) the end of the dovetail, to help maximize the overall slide travel.

Logan Lathe CNC Conversion

For that, I made a quick-and-dirty spacer from 1" bar stock. I still need to clearance the dovetail.

Logan Lathe CNC Conversion

Clearanced and bolted to the stack. Since I drilled the bolt holes slightly oversize, the bearings were able to float
slightly to find the center, so everything's fairly well aligned.

Logan Lathe CNC Conversion

Now, this particular ballscrew didn't come with a locking nut, and even when they do, they use a tiny setscrew to
lock to the threads, which usually damages them. I decided to make my own, and so got out a bit of 1" hot-rolled
out of the scrap bin, and drilled and tapped it to 10mm 1.0.

Logan Lathe CNC Conversion

After that, I drilled and tapped it for a 6-32 pinch bolt...

Logan Lathe CNC Conversion

And parted it off at about 1/4" thickness.

Logan Lathe CNC Conversion

The parted side got faced, and then I slit it with a saw.

Logan Lathe CNC Conversion

And done. A clamping, non-thread-marring locknut.

Logan Lathe CNC Conversion

Which installs like so. I was going to add some wrench flats, but it tightens easily by hand.

Logan Lathe CNC Conversion

Now, to keep the reduction belt pulley from sticking out too far, I thinned it up quite a bit,
and counterbored the backside to clear the new nut.

Logan Lathe CNC Conversion

Last, I ground two setscrew flats on the end of the ballscrew shaft, slid the pulley on, and locked 'er in place.

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Information contained in these pages is for reference and entertainment purposes only.  Our methods are not always the best,
quickest, safest, or even the correct ones. It's up to you to know how to use your own machines and tools.
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